But not with PMW.
I have received lots of advice on how to get PMW started so thanks to everyone who has helped. I will get back on that particular case in a couple of weeks (after the Pendle and Pennine Not the Christmas Meal).
Correspondence with "Mad Uncle Ted" though has confirmed PMW is a very early Mk2 2000 and quite possibly the second earliest still in existence so it is actually of historic significance which means I'll be keeping it as original as possible.
Today though I returned to UNJ, the TR7 convertible. Lying under the car messing about with swapping over a second hand starter motor isn't the most enjoyable way of spending time but I did try and do everything correctly with all the connections, repositioning the heat shield whilst making sure none of the cables were trapped etc.
Then refitting the battery and time to turn the key, not expecting any response of course. Amazingly the starter turned over and after a few attempts the car sprang back into life - hurragh! Feeling rash I even turned the lights on and they all worked, even the rear number plate and sidelights which had gone on strike in France in September.
Just a case then of tidying up and not leaving the car running too long as it now has no fan fitted and I don't want overheating probelms. The other thing is that there is hardly any fuel in the car and I definitely don't want the dregs from the fuel tank being pulled through the fuel lines and into the carbs.
Next things UNJ needs are some petrol and an electric fan kit.
Tuesday, December 31, 2013
Sunday, December 29, 2013
So why won't it run?
Along with my mate Paul Darbyshire (a big thanks to him) Saturday December 28th was the day when PMW was to fire up.
First off we replaced the split hose on the inlet manifoild (after breaking off part of the pipe in the manifold - oops). Refilled with water all OK - for now.
Then spotted that the vacuum pipe from the dizzy to the carbs was somewhat short so found the remainder and fitted that.
Now for the time to start the car.
Err - no, not turning over fast enough. So with 4 batteries all charged up in total we used jump leads from one of them to the battery on PMW and tried again. Not a great improvment and not even a sign of a "cough".
Next up - we used a battery pack which improved things a bit on the turning over front but no joy again.
Right, back to first principles. Is there a spark? So we placed a spare spark plug in number one lead and put that on the rocker cover. Yes there was a spark when we fired it up (Knew there would be from last time but worth checking again).
Next - get the timing sorted. Done with the aid of a didgital analyser.
No joy again.
Next - check that when it's at TDC on the firing stroke for number 1 that the rotor arm is pointing at the right post in the dizzy cap for number 1. No it wasn't! No idea how that happened but we changed the spark plug leads round so that it was now 180 degrees from where they were and correctly aligned.
Well that made no difference either.
It was probably around this time I noticed water running down the side of the engine block.Probably a core plug, oh good. I should have replaced them as a matter of course but they all looked really good and I decided not to disturb things when I was rebuuilding the engine. Oh well another job for later but that can wait until I get the engine running.
Back to it. I have never been happy with the battery on the car which was a square post type instead of the correct round type and the fixings weren't great either. I had bought new round type battery clamps so we fitted these and substituted a known good battery of the correct type from BRP if I remember correctly.
Now with the battery pack connected the engine turned over noticeably quicker but still without any sign of even looking like a spark of interest.
We checked fuel delivery all the way to both carbs and that was fine. Even easy start didn't help.
OK, just in case our logic was wrong from earlier I put together a spare dizzy cap and leads fitted 180- degrees "out" and we fitted that for another try which resulted in absolutely no difference at all - the engine turning over but no sign of firing up at all.
Just for a bit of light relief we wandered over to the Rover SD1 VDP, fitted a battery and turned the key for the first tine in a year. And it started first time!!!! No, not really but it did sound like if we had begun the day with that one we would have had a car running by the end of it.
All out of ideas it was time to call it a day after 4 1/2 hours of puzzling over why the car won't start.
Any ideas out there?
First off we replaced the split hose on the inlet manifoild (after breaking off part of the pipe in the manifold - oops). Refilled with water all OK - for now.
Then spotted that the vacuum pipe from the dizzy to the carbs was somewhat short so found the remainder and fitted that.
Now for the time to start the car.
Err - no, not turning over fast enough. So with 4 batteries all charged up in total we used jump leads from one of them to the battery on PMW and tried again. Not a great improvment and not even a sign of a "cough".
Next up - we used a battery pack which improved things a bit on the turning over front but no joy again.
Right, back to first principles. Is there a spark? So we placed a spare spark plug in number one lead and put that on the rocker cover. Yes there was a spark when we fired it up (Knew there would be from last time but worth checking again).
Next - get the timing sorted. Done with the aid of a didgital analyser.
No joy again.
Next - check that when it's at TDC on the firing stroke for number 1 that the rotor arm is pointing at the right post in the dizzy cap for number 1. No it wasn't! No idea how that happened but we changed the spark plug leads round so that it was now 180 degrees from where they were and correctly aligned.
Well that made no difference either.
It was probably around this time I noticed water running down the side of the engine block.Probably a core plug, oh good. I should have replaced them as a matter of course but they all looked really good and I decided not to disturb things when I was rebuuilding the engine. Oh well another job for later but that can wait until I get the engine running.
Back to it. I have never been happy with the battery on the car which was a square post type instead of the correct round type and the fixings weren't great either. I had bought new round type battery clamps so we fitted these and substituted a known good battery of the correct type from BRP if I remember correctly.
Now with the battery pack connected the engine turned over noticeably quicker but still without any sign of even looking like a spark of interest.
We checked fuel delivery all the way to both carbs and that was fine. Even easy start didn't help.
OK, just in case our logic was wrong from earlier I put together a spare dizzy cap and leads fitted 180- degrees "out" and we fitted that for another try which resulted in absolutely no difference at all - the engine turning over but no sign of firing up at all.
Just for a bit of light relief we wandered over to the Rover SD1 VDP, fitted a battery and turned the key for the first tine in a year. And it started first time!!!! No, not really but it did sound like if we had begun the day with that one we would have had a car running by the end of it.
All out of ideas it was time to call it a day after 4 1/2 hours of puzzling over why the car won't start.
Any ideas out there?
Sunday, December 22, 2013
PMW brake hoses
So another 3 hours on PMW.
First I have never fitted the air cleaner assembly with the back on as the air filters were too deep. Well I took another look and that's not actually true, it just needed more determination so now the assembly is as it should be, with the back on it and fitted up to the carbs.
Then I moved on to the heater hoses and the radiator hoses and refitted them. I used some new hoses here and there but one wouldn't fit without a kink in it so I kept the old one on instead.
Good to fill the radiator up with water as you hear the various noises the system makes as it refills, another sign of the car coming alive again. I prefer not to put antifreeze in straight away as you never know if there could yet be a problem so why risk wasting costly antifreeze?
My point was proven as water poured out from a hose hidden away under the heater hoses near the bulkhead. I had missed this one and it is rotten/split so will need a new one.
Moving on then to another area. I had bought months (years?) ago new braided brake hoses so I went to fit these to the front. The old one at the front nearside was a pig to get off but after the usual old tricks I was successful and refitted the new one. Thing is though, because I had dropped the suspension to change the engine I couldn't remember how it all fixed to a plate and the coppper brake pipe that goes to the union inside the engine bay.
I even went to the trouble of taking photos so I could ask on the Club Triumph forum for guidance but in the end didn't need to as I worked it out - see the photo below.
First I have never fitted the air cleaner assembly with the back on as the air filters were too deep. Well I took another look and that's not actually true, it just needed more determination so now the assembly is as it should be, with the back on it and fitted up to the carbs.
Then I moved on to the heater hoses and the radiator hoses and refitted them. I used some new hoses here and there but one wouldn't fit without a kink in it so I kept the old one on instead.
Good to fill the radiator up with water as you hear the various noises the system makes as it refills, another sign of the car coming alive again. I prefer not to put antifreeze in straight away as you never know if there could yet be a problem so why risk wasting costly antifreeze?
My point was proven as water poured out from a hose hidden away under the heater hoses near the bulkhead. I had missed this one and it is rotten/split so will need a new one.
Moving on then to another area. I had bought months (years?) ago new braided brake hoses so I went to fit these to the front. The old one at the front nearside was a pig to get off but after the usual old tricks I was successful and refitted the new one. Thing is though, because I had dropped the suspension to change the engine I couldn't remember how it all fixed to a plate and the coppper brake pipe that goes to the union inside the engine bay.
I even went to the trouble of taking photos so I could ask on the Club Triumph forum for guidance but in the end didn't need to as I worked it out - see the photo below.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
No connection
Well I didn't have a connection to the starter motor on UNJ as it snapped off - see one of the previous blog entries.
So yesterday I lay under the car and carefully stripped the end off the wire, used a "proper" crimp connector with a "proper" crimping tool whilst remembering to put an insulating boot on the wire first. None of this being at all easy whilst lying on your back as opposed toin a lovely warm workshop and bench in said workshop preparing a new wiring loom.
Managed it tho - hurragh!
Blooming car won't start though - not even a hint of the starter motor responding :-(
Next then on this member of the fleet will be to tke the starter motor off and see if one of the three spare second hand ones ---
a) fit
b) work
If none of the above I won't be a happy bunny.
Still, there's always PMW to go back to and see if I can have running by the end of the Christmas break.
So yesterday I lay under the car and carefully stripped the end off the wire, used a "proper" crimp connector with a "proper" crimping tool whilst remembering to put an insulating boot on the wire first. None of this being at all easy whilst lying on your back as opposed toin a lovely warm workshop and bench in said workshop preparing a new wiring loom.
Managed it tho - hurragh!
Blooming car won't start though - not even a hint of the starter motor responding :-(
Next then on this member of the fleet will be to tke the starter motor off and see if one of the three spare second hand ones ---
a) fit
b) work
If none of the above I won't be a happy bunny.
Still, there's always PMW to go back to and see if I can have running by the end of the Christmas break.
Saturday, November 30, 2013
Bolting bits on
That's PMW under the sheet with buses, a Land Rover and even a dump truck all round it!
Best get on so the car can come back home.
This afternoon though was all about bolting bits back on. The boot is getting emptier as bits come out of there and are either returned home or go on the car.
Like the air filter assembly, radiator and electric fan which took up 2 1/2 hours today (see pictures below).
I had charged up a battery off UNJ and took this over today too.
I stored it in the Rover and brought back a battery I had taken off BRP and JEA's battery too. I intend to charge these batteries up as well and then I'll have a total of 4 charged car batteries for when I next attempt to start PMW - will this be a Christmas present for me I wonder?
Sunday, November 10, 2013
Upping the pressure
I got back to PMW and the quest to get it running again.
First though I got the car up on axle stands and got the clutch slave cylinder bolted on. It was much easier to work out where it went when I could see the bell housing etc.
Meanwhile, last week petrol had been pumping out of the front carb which seemed a bit of a worry. I thought a float valve was stuck so I took along a spare set of carbs with the intention of swapping bits over but found the fuel pipe that links the two carbs in the boot!
No wonder, it's supoosed to do that with fuel being fed from the front carb to the rear one via the fuel pipe I had not attached - idiot!
So, back to spinning the engine over with the plugs out and even with a battery pack attached there was still no oil pressure. At Bryce's suggestion we fed oil into the oil pump by removing the oil pressure sender and pumping oil in.
Then when the engine was turned over eventually we got oil coming out of the hole where the oil pressure sender had been so we were making progress. Replacing the sender though then meant oil coming by the oil filter housing so making progress sort of as at least oil was finding leaks!
Taking the spin on oil filter housing off the engine I found that I had left the outer seal on the old engine; what a pillock. There was another seal too which looked none too clever so we replaced this with a new o ring, fitted the outer seal and put it all back together.
This time no leaks and enough oil pressure to get the oil light to go out so good news.
On to the next stage. Although we had an oil light which went out now, there was no ignition light. I trraced this problem to one of the alternator wires not fitting correctly so that was put right.
This was followed by making sure the plug leads were on correctly, the wiring to the coil and distributor in place and the points cleaned and gapped.
Couldn't get the car to fire up though even though we had a spark at the plugs. The battery was really suffering by now and we need to sort out the timing. The car is in an old shed with no lighting and by now bad light really did stop play.
Not bad though, I think the happy day is getting closer.
First though I got the car up on axle stands and got the clutch slave cylinder bolted on. It was much easier to work out where it went when I could see the bell housing etc.
Meanwhile, last week petrol had been pumping out of the front carb which seemed a bit of a worry. I thought a float valve was stuck so I took along a spare set of carbs with the intention of swapping bits over but found the fuel pipe that links the two carbs in the boot!
No wonder, it's supoosed to do that with fuel being fed from the front carb to the rear one via the fuel pipe I had not attached - idiot!
So, back to spinning the engine over with the plugs out and even with a battery pack attached there was still no oil pressure. At Bryce's suggestion we fed oil into the oil pump by removing the oil pressure sender and pumping oil in.
Then when the engine was turned over eventually we got oil coming out of the hole where the oil pressure sender had been so we were making progress. Replacing the sender though then meant oil coming by the oil filter housing so making progress sort of as at least oil was finding leaks!
Taking the spin on oil filter housing off the engine I found that I had left the outer seal on the old engine; what a pillock. There was another seal too which looked none too clever so we replaced this with a new o ring, fitted the outer seal and put it all back together.
This time no leaks and enough oil pressure to get the oil light to go out so good news.
On to the next stage. Although we had an oil light which went out now, there was no ignition light. I trraced this problem to one of the alternator wires not fitting correctly so that was put right.
This was followed by making sure the plug leads were on correctly, the wiring to the coil and distributor in place and the points cleaned and gapped.
Couldn't get the car to fire up though even though we had a spark at the plugs. The battery was really suffering by now and we need to sort out the timing. The car is in an old shed with no lighting and by now bad light really did stop play.
Not bad though, I think the happy day is getting closer.
Sunday, November 03, 2013
Getting close with PMW
I suddenly realised that actually I keep bolting bits on to PMW and it can't be that far away from start up time (GULP).
So yesterday it was time to see how close I could get.
Fitted the fuel pipes to the fuel pump and carbs then primed the pump and a nice little morale booster to see petrol in the pump bowl.
Next up fitting the distributor - two to choose from, one of which slotted in fine pointing at mnumber 1 and the opther slotted in 180 degrees out. Hmm - the second one is a new old stock one though specific for this early Mk2 2000 so that was the one fitted and the leads will have to be changed round to suit.
Connected the battery and the interior lights came on when I opened the door as well as the oil light when turning the ignition - another little morale booster.
So now time to turn the engine over with plugs removed to let the oil pressure build up as it's a rebuilt engine.
Bad news - major fuel leak at the pump. Down to me cross threading the connection (what a pillock!) but thankfully that could be corrected.
Next fuel leak at the front carb bowl which couldn't be fixed there and then so it's on next week's job list.
This all meant we couldn't turn the engine over long enough for the oil light to go out but the plus point was that the engine wasn't tight (I had turned it over by hand before as well) and there were no horrible noises so at this early stage it doesn't seem like I made a complete cock up of assembling the bottom of the engine at least.
Meanwhile, in the photo those of you familiar with these cars will see the clutch slave cylinder resting on top of the wiper motor (at the end of the braided hose). At this minute I can't see where it bolts back on!
NNext week I'll have the car up on axle stands so should be able to work it out but if anyone can advise me or send me a photo of it fitted please do!
So yesterday it was time to see how close I could get.
Fitted the fuel pipes to the fuel pump and carbs then primed the pump and a nice little morale booster to see petrol in the pump bowl.
Next up fitting the distributor - two to choose from, one of which slotted in fine pointing at mnumber 1 and the opther slotted in 180 degrees out. Hmm - the second one is a new old stock one though specific for this early Mk2 2000 so that was the one fitted and the leads will have to be changed round to suit.
Connected the battery and the interior lights came on when I opened the door as well as the oil light when turning the ignition - another little morale booster.
So now time to turn the engine over with plugs removed to let the oil pressure build up as it's a rebuilt engine.
Bad news - major fuel leak at the pump. Down to me cross threading the connection (what a pillock!) but thankfully that could be corrected.
Next fuel leak at the front carb bowl which couldn't be fixed there and then so it's on next week's job list.
This all meant we couldn't turn the engine over long enough for the oil light to go out but the plus point was that the engine wasn't tight (I had turned it over by hand before as well) and there were no horrible noises so at this early stage it doesn't seem like I made a complete cock up of assembling the bottom of the engine at least.
Meanwhile, in the photo those of you familiar with these cars will see the clutch slave cylinder resting on top of the wiper motor (at the end of the braided hose). At this minute I can't see where it bolts back on!
NNext week I'll have the car up on axle stands so should be able to work it out but if anyone can advise me or send me a photo of it fitted please do!
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Time to start on UNJ
OK, after my roadtrip in September UNJ needs some TLC.
The Viscous coupling (otherwise known as the viscious coupling!) started to fail, making all sorts of horrible noises high up in the Alps. It was possible to get hold of the fan blades (engine off of course) and rock them back and forward feeling the bearing on it's way out.
So, as a solution we took the fan blades off completely to reduce the load on the viscous coupling and drove the car all the way home. Who says these cars don't have good cooling and like to warp cylinder heads for fun?
Anyway, the picture shows the "stub" which I have now removed and will be replacing with an electric fan kit in due course.
Meanwhile, whilst turning round having missed a turn off overnight we made a slight misjudgement which resulted in us rolling backwards into a barrier - the result can be seen below. Not too bad and I have just touched it in quite heavily with paint to keep the evil rust away.
Next thing to comment on is that the starter motor failed towards the end of the trip meaning we had to jump start the car on and off the ferry! What I found having started to take it off was that actually the connections were loose and one of them has fallen off now!
This is what can be seen above - I am now pondering on how best to replace it.
Finally, the instrument and rear lights failed which some very nice French policement pointed out to us! Ihaven't sorted this out yet either but there's no hurry as I won't be using the car until next year when another raid on Europe will be on the cards.
Still had a great trip though and loved the swim in the Med and storming the Stelvio
So, as a solution we took the fan blades off completely to reduce the load on the viscous coupling and drove the car all the way home. Who says these cars don't have good cooling and like to warp cylinder heads for fun?
Anyway, the picture shows the "stub" which I have now removed and will be replacing with an electric fan kit in due course.
Meanwhile, whilst turning round having missed a turn off overnight we made a slight misjudgement which resulted in us rolling backwards into a barrier - the result can be seen below. Not too bad and I have just touched it in quite heavily with paint to keep the evil rust away.
This is what can be seen above - I am now pondering on how best to replace it.
Finally, the instrument and rear lights failed which some very nice French policement pointed out to us! Ihaven't sorted this out yet either but there's no hurry as I won't be using the car until next year when another raid on Europe will be on the cards.
Still had a great trip though and loved the swim in the Med and storming the Stelvio
Saturday, September 28, 2013
Let's catch up
Had a cracking Roadtrip earlier this month visiting the Med at Nice, storming up the Stelvio pass and return to good old Blighty. The pictures above show UNJ at Dover, in Louhans central France and outside a stop south of Grenoble in the French Alps.
I suppose like any 32 year old car has a right to it had a few problems, notably the viscous coupling failing and the rear lights going AWOL but all in all UNJ did a great job - fast, comfortable and stood up to a damned good thrashing over 5 days and 3000 miles.
It has taken me some time to get back to the cars though as I felt enough was enough for a while.
UNJ will need an electric fan kit and some diagnostic work but it's off the road now until next spring so no hurry.
I did return to PMW the 2000 today first of all just to have a look and see where I had got to!
Once there though I realised I have made good progress and maybe it won't be too long before I can have the car back on the road.
So, gently gently I restarted work. The carbs are back on now with all the linkages back together and the accelerator and choke cables reconnected. Also the fuel pump back on the engine.
Here's a couple of photos to prove PMW still exists!
Monday, August 26, 2013
A joy to drive
I had the two front wheels balanced at work and refit them on Saturday - there is a problem in that the weights are knocked off the inside of the wheel as there is so little clearance to the brake caliper.
I solved this by sticking new weights on right on the rim but there is still a wheel wobble at 50MPH or so but at least it's not as bad as it was.
What was frustrating though was that I had left the sidelights on all week so UNJ's battery was absolutely flat and I only have a battery conditioner so it took two days to recharge it. Then I just managed to get it to start before the battery lost all power again but once going there was no looking back.
A great day to go for a run of about 30 miles and apart from the reduced wheel balance problem the car feels good to go - in fact a joy to drive.
Even the radio works!
I solved this by sticking new weights on right on the rim but there is still a wheel wobble at 50MPH or so but at least it's not as bad as it was.
What was frustrating though was that I had left the sidelights on all week so UNJ's battery was absolutely flat and I only have a battery conditioner so it took two days to recharge it. Then I just managed to get it to start before the battery lost all power again but once going there was no looking back.
A great day to go for a run of about 30 miles and apart from the reduced wheel balance problem the car feels good to go - in fact a joy to drive.
Even the radio works!
Sunday, August 11, 2013
It's great in the end
The dropped nut syndrom was a real pain !
The local classic car friendly garage couldn't get one for me but recommended somewhere in Burnley. No joy there either. Then I remembered a place in Blackburn I used to use when I restored my Vitesse 20 years ago so I googled them and they were still there.
20 minutes later they had come to the rescue.
Of course then it was a case of refitting the shock absorber but that seemed minor in comparison to the hassle so far.
How about some in car entertainment? I tracked down a Panasonic radio cassette I bought brand new back in 82 for my RS2000 Custom at the time so it's still period. Managed to get that slotted in but on checking the door speakers I found that behind the grill there was no speaker one side!
£15 replacements from Amazon sorted that out so yesterday I fitted those and got everything working so I can listen to my MP3 player via an FM transmitter. Mind you getting the electric aerial to co-operate proved a tad difficult, yet another piece of rubbish wiring from the past so now it's not electrical and permanently extended.
From there on to fixing the exhaust which was knocking. No wonder, it was right against one of the rear coil springs. Another hour or so under the car loosening it off and repositioning it sorted that out.
Whilst under there a good time to check the gearbox oil level which might explain the recent difficulty in selecting gears. No problem there as ATF poured out when I took out the top up filler bolt so I shoved some more in and put the bolt back in as quickly as possible.
A road test with the top down was just great so a job well done.
Today I contented myself with fettling the hood (my repaired one recently refitted) and then moved on to adjust the reversing light switch on top of the gearbox as the reversing lights don't stay on when reverse is selected.
Off with the gear lever cover and look at the top of the gearbox only to find that the whole selector extension is floating about all over the place, up and down and right to left - arghh!!!
Right, car back up on axle stands and me back under it.
To those who don't know the LT77 gearbox, there are 8 rubber bushes fitted where the extension bolts to the gearbox. Well, there should be - they were totally missing from mine!
Solution was to strip a set from a spare gearbox I have and fit them. More grovelling around under the car and getting absolutely filthy.
It is great in the end though. The gear selection was absolutely brilliant on the road test, a strange "shimmy" noise has disappeared (I think this was the extension resting on the propshaft - gulp) and the reversing lights work.
The local classic car friendly garage couldn't get one for me but recommended somewhere in Burnley. No joy there either. Then I remembered a place in Blackburn I used to use when I restored my Vitesse 20 years ago so I googled them and they were still there.
20 minutes later they had come to the rescue.
Of course then it was a case of refitting the shock absorber but that seemed minor in comparison to the hassle so far.
How about some in car entertainment? I tracked down a Panasonic radio cassette I bought brand new back in 82 for my RS2000 Custom at the time so it's still period. Managed to get that slotted in but on checking the door speakers I found that behind the grill there was no speaker one side!
£15 replacements from Amazon sorted that out so yesterday I fitted those and got everything working so I can listen to my MP3 player via an FM transmitter. Mind you getting the electric aerial to co-operate proved a tad difficult, yet another piece of rubbish wiring from the past so now it's not electrical and permanently extended.
From there on to fixing the exhaust which was knocking. No wonder, it was right against one of the rear coil springs. Another hour or so under the car loosening it off and repositioning it sorted that out.
Whilst under there a good time to check the gearbox oil level which might explain the recent difficulty in selecting gears. No problem there as ATF poured out when I took out the top up filler bolt so I shoved some more in and put the bolt back in as quickly as possible.
A road test with the top down was just great so a job well done.
Today I contented myself with fettling the hood (my repaired one recently refitted) and then moved on to adjust the reversing light switch on top of the gearbox as the reversing lights don't stay on when reverse is selected.
Off with the gear lever cover and look at the top of the gearbox only to find that the whole selector extension is floating about all over the place, up and down and right to left - arghh!!!
Right, car back up on axle stands and me back under it.
To those who don't know the LT77 gearbox, there are 8 rubber bushes fitted where the extension bolts to the gearbox. Well, there should be - they were totally missing from mine!
Solution was to strip a set from a spare gearbox I have and fit them. More grovelling around under the car and getting absolutely filthy.
It is great in the end though. The gear selection was absolutely brilliant on the road test, a strange "shimmy" noise has disappeared (I think this was the extension resting on the propshaft - gulp) and the reversing lights work.
Saturday, July 20, 2013
Dropped nut syndrome
I have bought a reconditioned hub as I wasn't fully happy with the situation after last week.
That meant another wheel bearing kit as well of course but it certainly proved right to do as fitting the inner race needed inserting with a previous race and large hammer - rather different to last week when it just "fell in".
I was even more convinced it was the right thing to do when I took the old hub off the car and found the oil seal pushed out and the inner bearing complete with race now stuck onto the stub axle. In a few more miles it would have been like that time it failed and be welded on to the stub axle.
After swapping the brake disc over to the reconditioned hub and fitting the new wheel bearing kit it was put back on to the car. Along with adjusting the other side wheel bearing that was close of play for the front end.
To the rear now and replacement of the shock absorbers as one of them had leaked last week after I had replaced the springs! All of this went along nicely until a very unfortunate mishap.
Yes, dropped nut syndrome. I dropped the nut for the top of the nearside shock absorber and try as I might I cannot find it. Of course the old ones aren't the same size grrr!
Which means the job isn't finished and I can't test the car after all that effort.
So that's "dropped nut syndrome"
That meant another wheel bearing kit as well of course but it certainly proved right to do as fitting the inner race needed inserting with a previous race and large hammer - rather different to last week when it just "fell in".
I was even more convinced it was the right thing to do when I took the old hub off the car and found the oil seal pushed out and the inner bearing complete with race now stuck onto the stub axle. In a few more miles it would have been like that time it failed and be welded on to the stub axle.
After swapping the brake disc over to the reconditioned hub and fitting the new wheel bearing kit it was put back on to the car. Along with adjusting the other side wheel bearing that was close of play for the front end.
To the rear now and replacement of the shock absorbers as one of them had leaked last week after I had replaced the springs! All of this went along nicely until a very unfortunate mishap.
Yes, dropped nut syndrome. I dropped the nut for the top of the nearside shock absorber and try as I might I cannot find it. Of course the old ones aren't the same size grrr!
Which means the job isn't finished and I can't test the car after all that effort.
So that's "dropped nut syndrome"
Sunday, July 14, 2013
Just a little bit more
As yesterday went so well I decided to do a bit more.
Although I had bought uprated 1" lowered springs UNJ sits high at the rear - 25" from the road to wheel arch on the nearside and 24" on the offside (!) so I bought another pair (they aren't that expensive).
So today I fitted the new pair which didn't take long but as I was letting the car back down the offside shock absorber started leaking oil. No doubt it was the extended state it reached whilst I was fitting the springs but it does mean I should replace both rears now - grrr!
Another test drive followed and maybe I am paranoid but I think there's a "wobble" starting which is from the hub that suffered the collapsed wheel bearing. I reckon it was damaged beyond repair as when I fitted the inner race for the wheel bearing it's supposed to be a press fit but it more or less just fell in.
The car has also now reminded me that it started to baulk on selecting 2nd and or 3rd gear when we were on the Welsh Tour so that needs investigating.
The main beam and flash had stopped working too but I have fixed that by cleaning an earth and improved the pathetic windscreen washers by blowing compressed air through the jets.
More work needed yet though.
Oh, and when I measured the ride height with the new lowered springs? 24 2/3" and 24"!!!
Although I had bought uprated 1" lowered springs UNJ sits high at the rear - 25" from the road to wheel arch on the nearside and 24" on the offside (!) so I bought another pair (they aren't that expensive).
So today I fitted the new pair which didn't take long but as I was letting the car back down the offside shock absorber started leaking oil. No doubt it was the extended state it reached whilst I was fitting the springs but it does mean I should replace both rears now - grrr!
Another test drive followed and maybe I am paranoid but I think there's a "wobble" starting which is from the hub that suffered the collapsed wheel bearing. I reckon it was damaged beyond repair as when I fitted the inner race for the wheel bearing it's supposed to be a press fit but it more or less just fell in.
The car has also now reminded me that it started to baulk on selecting 2nd and or 3rd gear when we were on the Welsh Tour so that needs investigating.
The main beam and flash had stopped working too but I have fixed that by cleaning an earth and improved the pathetic windscreen washers by blowing compressed air through the jets.
More work needed yet though.
Oh, and when I measured the ride height with the new lowered springs? 24 2/3" and 24"!!!
Saturday, July 13, 2013
11 miles and counting
After a lay off from all things Triumph due to my daughter getting married (Michelle to Bryce) and then us going on holiday, I at last got back to working on UNJ.
A steady process on a very hot day but rewarding so far.
Removed the nearside front strut, stripped it down so that I could fit the new spring insulators and the roller bearings. Once it was refitted to the car which was easier now I am using the jack technique I moved on to replacing the wheel bearing that had broken up.
I took care to clean every bit of swarf out of the hub and then replaced the bearing and refitted the hub, brake caliper and wheel.
3 1/2 hours work and it was time to give UNJ a test run.
First thing - no "clonk" as I set off and turned the steering wheel. I am sure this is where fitting the spring insulators have paid off as the front springs are now snugly located.
Then almost immediately I realised how light the steering now was - wow, those roller bearings really make a difference.
Following completing the usual test circuit I use of local roads which are a combination of town roads, local lanes (good for suspension and ride testing) and the A59 where a decent amount of speed can be built up it seems all is well.
That's why it's 11 miles and counting!
I am a bit paranoid though so I am thinking about getting a spare hub and building it up with a new wheel bearing. I can either fit this and keep the one just repaired as a spare or keep the new one as a spare - might be useful to have on the trip to Nice.
Meanwhile, I'll check the wheel bearings again in about 100 miles and adjust as needed.
Good to be out in UNJ though with the top down in the sun.
A steady process on a very hot day but rewarding so far.
Removed the nearside front strut, stripped it down so that I could fit the new spring insulators and the roller bearings. Once it was refitted to the car which was easier now I am using the jack technique I moved on to replacing the wheel bearing that had broken up.
I took care to clean every bit of swarf out of the hub and then replaced the bearing and refitted the hub, brake caliper and wheel.
3 1/2 hours work and it was time to give UNJ a test run.
First thing - no "clonk" as I set off and turned the steering wheel. I am sure this is where fitting the spring insulators have paid off as the front springs are now snugly located.
Then almost immediately I realised how light the steering now was - wow, those roller bearings really make a difference.
Following completing the usual test circuit I use of local roads which are a combination of town roads, local lanes (good for suspension and ride testing) and the A59 where a decent amount of speed can be built up it seems all is well.
That's why it's 11 miles and counting!
I am a bit paranoid though so I am thinking about getting a spare hub and building it up with a new wheel bearing. I can either fit this and keep the one just repaired as a spare or keep the new one as a spare - might be useful to have on the trip to Nice.
Meanwhile, I'll check the wheel bearings again in about 100 miles and adjust as needed.
Good to be out in UNJ though with the top down in the sun.
Saturday, June 15, 2013
Might as well!
A few bits I had ordered from Rimmer Bros so I could get on with sorting the suspension out on UNJ had arrived during the week so, on with the work then.
Here's the two struts dismantled and more importantly you can see the difference between the standard spring and the uprated one - a bit there eh!
I re-assembled the black original sturt with the red uprated spring and the best bits of the other components and then went to put it back on the car. This isn't an easy operation for one person but I got the stut bolted in at the top although I then couldn't locate it onto the ball joint at the bottom.
Then I had a brainwave, why not lower the entire front subframe whcih would give me the clearance.
Well that wasn't going to be a goer once I had started but then I spotted another option which worked - get a small jack in between the anti-roll bar and the subframe. This easily gave me the chance to lower the track rod end so the ball joint could locate with the strut bottom - following this?
But then - but then; I spotted the ball joint rubber was split. I agonised over ignoring this but decided to go and see if I had a spare rubber somewhere. I didn't find a spare but I did find this, given to me by my mate Paul Darbyshire some time in the past.
A roller bearing kit which is one of those "must do" modifications to a TR7 (although I never have done before) so I then had another one of those moments.
Stuff it, OK might as well then. Off with the strut again !!!
After dismantling the kit went on fine and the strut was put back together again.
Of course this means the nearside strut should be done too - Arghh!!
It's the right thing to do really because there were some spring insulators missing on the struts which I had replaced on the offside so it all ought to be balanced up.
After tidying everything away then it was off to order the insulators and two ball joint boot covers (I am bound to tear the nearside one when I take the strut off). Thing is though the postage was £7.95 or about the same as the total of the parts! Madness.
So, might as well buy something else then if the postage doesn't go up.
And that's when I remembered the Rover I bought has an aftermarket steering wheel on that I wasn't that happy about. Now Rimmers have brand new steering wheels in just one trim - the one for my car JEA :-)
Here's the two struts dismantled and more importantly you can see the difference between the standard spring and the uprated one - a bit there eh!
Then I had a brainwave, why not lower the entire front subframe whcih would give me the clearance.
Well that wasn't going to be a goer once I had started but then I spotted another option which worked - get a small jack in between the anti-roll bar and the subframe. This easily gave me the chance to lower the track rod end so the ball joint could locate with the strut bottom - following this?
But then - but then; I spotted the ball joint rubber was split. I agonised over ignoring this but decided to go and see if I had a spare rubber somewhere. I didn't find a spare but I did find this, given to me by my mate Paul Darbyshire some time in the past.
Stuff it, OK might as well then. Off with the strut again !!!
After dismantling the kit went on fine and the strut was put back together again.
Of course this means the nearside strut should be done too - Arghh!!
It's the right thing to do really because there were some spring insulators missing on the struts which I had replaced on the offside so it all ought to be balanced up.
After tidying everything away then it was off to order the insulators and two ball joint boot covers (I am bound to tear the nearside one when I take the strut off). Thing is though the postage was £7.95 or about the same as the total of the parts! Madness.
So, might as well buy something else then if the postage doesn't go up.
And that's when I remembered the Rover I bought has an aftermarket steering wheel on that I wasn't that happy about. Now Rimmers have brand new steering wheels in just one trim - the one for my car JEA :-)
£35 including VAT and the postage didn't go up - bargain!
Saturday, June 01, 2013
Remember this?
I now have the hood back from Trevor the Trimmer who has done a very good job (photo in due course).
The thing is though, Trevor thought it would be an easy job for him as he thought it would just be a question of sewing the screen back in but that wasn't the case.
It wasn't a split, Trevor reckons someone had used a stanley knife to cut the base of the screen from the hood!
Now what is the point of that? If you want to get in the car just pull the poppers off.
Worse, this happened whilst I couldn't use the car due to health reasons and it had been on my drive so that means someone had done the deed whilst the car was under my carport at home.
Monday, May 27, 2013
A tale of 3 weekends
On Friday May 10th Deana and I drove down to Tintern to stay over with relatives and then next day took part in Club Triumph's "Taith O Amgyclh Cymru" which was a two day tour of Wales starting near Ross on Wye.
Here we are at the start - and that was the best of the weather!
Mind you , we kept the hood down all day despite plenty of rain and even hail just before the halfway overnight in Aberystwyth.
It's a shame the weather was so bad but we both enjoyed the event and will be back for more.
Then last weekend I was at the North Yorkshire Triumph Weekend at Runswick Bay. Again the weather wasn't great but it was by no means as bad and I was there with a number of Club Triumph friends.
In addition as a sort of stag do for Bryce (no pun intended) my brothers, Bryce, my brother in law and two other close family friends came along too and we went karting which was great - shame Bryce was on the losing team!
On the way back to the campsite tho there was definitely a dodgy moment or two with wheel vibration and the brake pedal going to the floor :-(
I got UNJ back to the campsite as we were only about 5 miles away and then checked it out next day - loose wheel bearing which I tightened up, job sorted.
Setting off home though it was clear the job was not sorted - the same symptoms re-appeared and by now I felt it was really dangerous. I pulled into a layby near Guisborough, jacked the car up and checked for play in the offside front the wheel which felt like it was about to come off!!
There was nothing for it then but to call for the car to be recovered home which turned into a 6 hour epic but anyway, at least we got home safe.
So to today when I have investigated further.
This is what I found when I took the wheel off - scoring on the inside of the wheel which is probably due to contact with the brake disc as the wheel hub assembly floated about!
Once I had the hub off I could check the bearing and found there wasn't much of the inner part of it left. See below for the gory details with bits of it all over the place.
Meanwhile, on the stub axle there were bits left there too
I'm by no means an expert but I didn't like the look of that stub axle either. I think there's some serious heat been present and part of the bearing welded on to it perhaps?
So I got out of my stock the original stut that came off the car and compared them.
The stub axles look very different so to make sure I stripped off the nearside too and that also looks like the spare off side one so I think there's a bit of work to do here.
I think I'll be refitting the original strut and as I have not been happy with the ride height I'll get new springs front and rear, new inserts for the front and of course new wheel bearings.
So the car is going nowhere for some time whilst I sort it out. It will take priority over PMW as I plan to do the Alpine Roadtrip in UNJ.
Mind you , we kept the hood down all day despite plenty of rain and even hail just before the halfway overnight in Aberystwyth.
It's a shame the weather was so bad but we both enjoyed the event and will be back for more.
Then last weekend I was at the North Yorkshire Triumph Weekend at Runswick Bay. Again the weather wasn't great but it was by no means as bad and I was there with a number of Club Triumph friends.
In addition as a sort of stag do for Bryce (no pun intended) my brothers, Bryce, my brother in law and two other close family friends came along too and we went karting which was great - shame Bryce was on the losing team!
On the way back to the campsite tho there was definitely a dodgy moment or two with wheel vibration and the brake pedal going to the floor :-(
I got UNJ back to the campsite as we were only about 5 miles away and then checked it out next day - loose wheel bearing which I tightened up, job sorted.
Setting off home though it was clear the job was not sorted - the same symptoms re-appeared and by now I felt it was really dangerous. I pulled into a layby near Guisborough, jacked the car up and checked for play in the offside front the wheel which felt like it was about to come off!!
There was nothing for it then but to call for the car to be recovered home which turned into a 6 hour epic but anyway, at least we got home safe.
So to today when I have investigated further.
This is what I found when I took the wheel off - scoring on the inside of the wheel which is probably due to contact with the brake disc as the wheel hub assembly floated about!
So I got out of my stock the original stut that came off the car and compared them.
I think I'll be refitting the original strut and as I have not been happy with the ride height I'll get new springs front and rear, new inserts for the front and of course new wheel bearings.
So the car is going nowhere for some time whilst I sort it out. It will take priority over PMW as I plan to do the Alpine Roadtrip in UNJ.
Saturday, May 25, 2013
Quick question
Am I losing it?
I don't seem so interested in the competition side of motoring any more.
Now it's the socialising or maybe even other stuff, like going to a sixties weekend maybe.
Hmm - not sure about all this
I don't seem so interested in the competition side of motoring any more.
Now it's the socialising or maybe even other stuff, like going to a sixties weekend maybe.
Hmm - not sure about all this
Sunday, May 05, 2013
A good couple of days in Triumph land
Once put right all was well and then we were able to fit the front suspension. A few words to describe but took much longer than than that! In fact another 5 hours over yesterday and today.
Great to see it all back in though and PMW back on it's wheels for the first time in months.
So, a good couple of days indeed.
Then - the trip home in UNJ with the top down, what a joy!
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Helping out
At the very last minute I was asked to help out the local Church with any classic cars I could muster as they were running a fun day to raise funds.
Unfortunately they had been let down.
As it was so late I could only help with our cars but here's UNJ and Little Min
Unfortunately they had been let down.
As it was so late I could only help with our cars but here's UNJ and Little Min
Friday, April 05, 2013
Me and UNJ - ready for the road
Just a bit of tidying, a check over of tyre pressures etc and now ready for tonight's Pendle and Pennine meeting which I am really looking forward too as it will be the first one in a year I have driven to in a Triumph.
I have decided it will be a steady year for me this year but it's good to have at least one Triumph on the road.
Next weekend I'll be at the finish of the Historic Counties Run and tehn in May it will be the Club Triumph Wesh weekend tour followed by the North Yorkshire Triumph Weekend. After that I'll see how it goes and also see what this year's summer is like.
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Good to be back
After a year off the road due to epilepsy I am back again - and it's really good to have the freedom.
Just as pleasing - UNJ now has an MOT so as soon as it is April with a new tax disc I'll have the chance to do some Triumph motoring
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Just as pleasing - UNJ now has an MOT so as soon as it is April with a new tax disc I'll have the chance to do some Triumph motoring
Saturday, March 16, 2013
Getting it back together
And the next 3 hours!
This mainly consisted of getting the gearbox onto the "new" engine but it was very reluctant to play ball. I had just about got it on when I realised something was wrong as the clutch actuating arm was pointing straight down and wouldn't move.
Ho hum. Took it all apart again and found the carrier for the release bearing had parted but at least it was relatively easy to put it back in place. This time I made sure the actuating arm was fine - or at least that was what I tried to do but when the gearbox wouldn't go back on that sort of got lost in my mind set! Eventually I decided this wasn't a one man job and called on the assistance of Bryce's dad Steve and we soon had it in place.
Strangely Steve seemed to think this was a moment of weakness on my part and suggested I might want to buy a BMW M3! Well thanks for the help Steve but I could do without another car thanks.
From there it was a case of bolting on the starter motor and both inlet and exhaust manifolds. These manifolds went on and off one or two times until I was happy but nowadays I seem to have more patience so it was no hardship really.
Here's a photo of it all hanging together.
A very pleasing afternoon all in all but I think my back will know about it for sure!
This mainly consisted of getting the gearbox onto the "new" engine but it was very reluctant to play ball. I had just about got it on when I realised something was wrong as the clutch actuating arm was pointing straight down and wouldn't move.
Ho hum. Took it all apart again and found the carrier for the release bearing had parted but at least it was relatively easy to put it back in place. This time I made sure the actuating arm was fine - or at least that was what I tried to do but when the gearbox wouldn't go back on that sort of got lost in my mind set! Eventually I decided this wasn't a one man job and called on the assistance of Bryce's dad Steve and we soon had it in place.
Strangely Steve seemed to think this was a moment of weakness on my part and suggested I might want to buy a BMW M3! Well thanks for the help Steve but I could do without another car thanks.
From there it was a case of bolting on the starter motor and both inlet and exhaust manifolds. These manifolds went on and off one or two times until I was happy but nowadays I seem to have more patience so it was no hardship really.
Here's a photo of it all hanging together.
Saturday, March 09, 2013
Free standing
Another 3 hours on the 2000 today and lots of progress made.
It's difficult to cover in detail really but here's a few pictures.
This is the rebuilt original engine on the stand ready for more bits to be swapped over.
A difficult one was the pulley as the retaining bolt didn't want to let go on the old engine but with help from Bryce, a large bit of bar, a large bracing bar and a large hammer it let go and was swapped over.
Then the other end for the fitting up of a new 3 piece clutch. This was carefully put in place in alignment as marked when the engineering company did all the bottom end balancing - see "WD".
With that done I fitted a new release bearing too.
Having removed the engine mounting from the old engine I then lowered it to the ground, took the lifting eyes off it and transferred them to the new "engine". Finally, at the end of the day the "new engine came off it's stand where it has been for 6 months and was on the engine crane ready for the gearbox to be mounted next weekend.
Here it is "free standing"
It's difficult to cover in detail really but here's a few pictures.
A difficult one was the pulley as the retaining bolt didn't want to let go on the old engine but with help from Bryce, a large bit of bar, a large bracing bar and a large hammer it let go and was swapped over.
Then the other end for the fitting up of a new 3 piece clutch. This was carefully put in place in alignment as marked when the engineering company did all the bottom end balancing - see "WD".
Having removed the engine mounting from the old engine I then lowered it to the ground, took the lifting eyes off it and transferred them to the new "engine". Finally, at the end of the day the "new engine came off it's stand where it has been for 6 months and was on the engine crane ready for the gearbox to be mounted next weekend.
Here it is "free standing"
Saturday, March 02, 2013
Halfway there?
Had a good 5 1/2 hours on the cars today.
First I cleaned off surface rust on the Rover and applied Curust. So far so very good, the only rust I have found really is of the surface variety as you can see from this photo of the offside sill and door bottoms.
I would have taken more photos but the batteries ran out on my camera!
After an hour doing this I switched back to PMW although I can't show any proof of course.
I painted the engine bay with two coats of Venetian blue which is good enough to look OK and help preserve the car further.
I also retrieved the remains of the wing aerial from deep inside the wing itself and sprayed some waxoyl in.
Then swapped various bits over from the engine I took out to the rebuilt original although I couldn't fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as the engine is still on a stand and they fouled. I did get the thermostat housing and water pump swapped over but I need to get a whirly gun on the front pulley bolt so I can swap that over.
I also got the engine and gearbox separated ready for refitting and removed the clutch as well as the starter motor. I can't make further progress though as I need the spigot bush turning down to fit the lightened flywheel.
Meanwhile, I am compiling rather a long list of parts needed whcihwill delay things somehwat due to budgetary constraints!
First I cleaned off surface rust on the Rover and applied Curust. So far so very good, the only rust I have found really is of the surface variety as you can see from this photo of the offside sill and door bottoms.
I would have taken more photos but the batteries ran out on my camera!
I painted the engine bay with two coats of Venetian blue which is good enough to look OK and help preserve the car further.
I also retrieved the remains of the wing aerial from deep inside the wing itself and sprayed some waxoyl in.
Then swapped various bits over from the engine I took out to the rebuilt original although I couldn't fit the inlet and exhaust manifolds as the engine is still on a stand and they fouled. I did get the thermostat housing and water pump swapped over but I need to get a whirly gun on the front pulley bolt so I can swap that over.
I also got the engine and gearbox separated ready for refitting and removed the clutch as well as the starter motor. I can't make further progress though as I need the spigot bush turning down to fit the lightened flywheel.
Meanwhile, I am compiling rather a long list of parts needed whcihwill delay things somehwat due to budgetary constraints!
Friday, March 01, 2013
Looking great
My Club Triumph friends will think I have lost the plot here!
Not only featuring my wife's Mini Mayfair but admitting I polished the chromework on it as well as washing the car (oh the shame of it).
Does look great though. Photos were taken for insurance purposes.
Not only featuring my wife's Mini Mayfair but admitting I polished the chromework on it as well as washing the car (oh the shame of it).
Does look great though. Photos were taken for insurance purposes.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
And so to bed
Bought a Haynes manual and an owners manual for the Rover but other than that the only thing I have done is covered it with a tarpaulin!
I have done a fair bit more to PMW tho.
First off was getting the car high enough to get the engine and gearbox out - thanks Bryce for manually lifting the car (!) while I raised the axle stands each side bit by bit. Then it was fine to pull out the engine and box, put them on an engine crane while leaving the subframe and front suspension on the pallet truck.
Once that was done I took the opportunity to inspect the engine bay and as you can see in the next 2 photos the car is as solid as I thought - not in bad nick at all.
Whilst by no means a polisher (how dare someone suggest such a thing) I did then sped time cleaning the engine bay with thinners before using curust on all the surface rust I found. Next week I'll get the Teal blue aerosols out and give these areas a coat or two to help preserve the car and then if someone in the future wants to do a proper job the car will still be in existence for them to do so!
The areas with curust applied can be seen in the above photo. Another thing that can be seen is a braided clutch hose I fitted. This was something I had bought a couple of years ago with some Rimmer Bros vouchers I had been given and it felt good to be fitting something back onto the car.
I also took the chance to get some waxoyl in places which would be difficult to reach with the engine in place.
Then finally the car was back under wraps until next weekend.
3 good hours put in and 2 cars put to bed under the covers!
 | ||
| Under wraps |
First off was getting the car high enough to get the engine and gearbox out - thanks Bryce for manually lifting the car (!) while I raised the axle stands each side bit by bit. Then it was fine to pull out the engine and box, put them on an engine crane while leaving the subframe and front suspension on the pallet truck.
I also took the chance to get some waxoyl in places which would be difficult to reach with the engine in place.
Then finally the car was back under wraps until next weekend.
3 good hours put in and 2 cars put to bed under the covers!
Sunday, February 03, 2013
Split screen
Split screen? No, I have not bought a VW Camper or early Morris Minor!
I am tempting fate and getting ready for returning to driving (application off to the DVLA today) which means looking at the car I am going to be using first.
I have been starting and moving UNJ about over the last year as well as other jobs listed on here so it's pretty much OK for MOT on March 20th although I must get round to booking that.
What has happened whilst it's been in hibernation though is the rear screen in the hood has split away from the hood fabric. In fact, it's got worse which seems odd for a non moving car. My suspicion is next doors cat that likes sleeping on the hood and may well be getting off the hood by going down over the sloping rear screen. Not sure if it' weight would be enough but it can't be helping.
Anyway, in the attached photo the problem is obvious. The granules that are visible are supposed to keep cats away!
Now I am pondering what to do about it. I assume a trimmer will be able to repair it but where to start and what's the cost likely to be?
One thing for sure though is that the car can't be used in the rain with it like this.
I am tempting fate and getting ready for returning to driving (application off to the DVLA today) which means looking at the car I am going to be using first.
I have been starting and moving UNJ about over the last year as well as other jobs listed on here so it's pretty much OK for MOT on March 20th although I must get round to booking that.
What has happened whilst it's been in hibernation though is the rear screen in the hood has split away from the hood fabric. In fact, it's got worse which seems odd for a non moving car. My suspicion is next doors cat that likes sleeping on the hood and may well be getting off the hood by going down over the sloping rear screen. Not sure if it' weight would be enough but it can't be helping.
Anyway, in the attached photo the problem is obvious. The granules that are visible are supposed to keep cats away!
 | ||
| Even duct tape won't hold it together! |
One thing for sure though is that the car can't be used in the rain with it like this.
Sunday, January 27, 2013
The big drop
Got a solid 4 hours work in on PMW today.
Rather than list all the detail, here's pictures that tell it all really. It has been a case of following the manual although it's great to have the use of equipment I wouldn't have at home - thanks Bryce!
Rather than list all the detail, here's pictures that tell it all really. It has been a case of following the manual although it's great to have the use of equipment I wouldn't have at home - thanks Bryce!
 | |||
| The method used is to drop the entire engine and gearbox on the suspension from the car. Here is the | start of the process. |
 |
| Here it's all lowered onto a pallet truck. |
 |
| That's what an empty engine bay looks like. |
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