Saturday, January 29, 2005

Running again

Replaced the broken accelerator cable today.

It was a much easier job than I had thought it might be. I think it's an example of how the TR7 was at last a triumph where they were trying to make things a bit more logical and "modern".

Having fixed that it was on with the charged battery and the car started no problem. Then I found the clutch stuck on! It took quite a time to get that freed off so I really must keep starting the car and moving it once a week.

Saturday, January 15, 2005

Pull switch.
There was something I could do! For rallying it is required to have an electrical breaker switch that can be activated from the outside. This is usually done by installing a pull handle at the base of the windscreen driver's side or below the rear window. As I needed one some time and the hole was already there I simply enlarged it a bit to fit and installed the handle with some sealer. Body work still needs to be done but this looks much better in the meantime.
The thing is it's not attached to anything so now I am tempted to get the FIA approved breaker switch and wire it in - more work!Posted by Hello

Water ingress. I had noticed water getting into the boot now and again and it became really apparent whilst working on the top shock absorber mount last week (see photo from last week). I think the problem was that the previous owner had had a CB aerial mounted on the rear deck in the past and the grommets he used to plug the hole didn't do a good enough job - see above. Doesn't look great does it? Over next winter I aim to have some bodywork done and this will be fixed then but was there something I could do before then? Posted by Hello

Hand brake adjustment

With the rear suspension sorted out and the car still in the air I adjusted the handbrake cable at the rear wheels and the linkage at the lever.

Then it was off with the drums and work on the "automatic" adjusters along with a general clean up.

The result of all that was a much better feel to the handbrake. The problem really was that when I swapped over the 5 speed gearbox, axle etc it was rather close to the 10CR and everything was a bit rushed so it wasn't set up properly then.

Re-assemble in reverse order. That's what the manual always says but it's rarely that easy. In this case it was so no pictures taken until it's all back together again. Thing is though these springs are uprated and designed to lower the ride height by one inch but it was 22.5", now it's 24"! That is 1" lower than standard and maybe it will settle down a bit more yet but I think it shows that the original springs were well worn. Given that I ahve ordered uprated but standard ride height front springs there was some concern the car might look too "tail down, nose up" - I don't think that will be an issue. I may even have more ground clearance which is not a bad thing. Posted by Hello

Lower spring mount. Same story again - in good condition on the lower suspension link. Posted by Hello

The top spring mount. One thing I am pleased aboput on this car it's structural strength. This is the top spring mount on the chassis rail and as can be seen, it's in fine condition. Next to it is the fuel tank liberally sprayed by the previous owner with oil, be the previous diff with oil (!) and by me with Dynotrol. Posted by Hello

New for old. Here are the new components next to the old. The new spring is clearly shorter and i am fitting new rubber mounts for it. The old shock absorber looks a bit sad and was certainly much easier to compress then the new one next to it. New bushes etc for this too. Posted by Hello

Removal of old spring and shock absorber. Posted by Hello

Rear nearside suspension
Here you can see a jack under the diff and an axle stand under the chassis rail on the offside. Posted by Hello

Rear suspension rebuild

After last week's loosening of the top shock absorbers this was the day to rebuild the rear suspension, see if I could do something with the hand brake so that it felt like there was one (!) and do something about the water getting into the boot.

First though, my intention was to start the car up, get it thoroughly warm and move it up and down the drive to make sure nothing had seized. So 12.30 PM, key in ignition and try to start the car. Well, the battery was a bit low, it nearly started once and then the accelerator cable snapped! So it was going to be that kind of day was it?

The battery was flat by now so first job was to get that off and on charge, follwed by pushing the car forward to gove me some space and getting it up on axle stands at the rear.

Saturday, January 08, 2005

This is the nearside with the black cover removed - the off side cover did come off after a struggle. I don't think they'll be going back on, this is going to be a rally car after all and leaving them off will make removal of the shocks easier in future. Anyone got a good reason for me to put them back on?

The nuts on top of the shock absorber are just visible. I have now loosened them off ready for next week's assault on the rear suspension.Posted by Hello

First step is to loosen the top bolts of the shock absorber mounts. This is the offside inside the boot (trunk for American friends). Problem is first I have to remove the black cover which is secured by 3 screws and hidden behind the fuel filler neck - just great! Don't like the rust evident there much either, I'll sort that out in due course - at least it's not structural (or even visible unless you are in my boot!). Posted by Hello

All the new bits - doesn't look like much really does it? Posted by Hello

Standard ride height as per homolgation is 25" so with 1" lowered springs the result should be a ride height of 24" right? So how come it's already at 22.5"! Maybe because the original springs are past their best? It'll be interesting to see what I end up with. Posted by Hello

How to measure the rear ride height - don't the wheels look great? Posted by Hello

More quotes for brakes and an update

Well, I have now had a quote for replicating the works brake system - including VAT but only for the calipers and discs comes to £1235!!!!!!

The search will go on for the best option but in the meantime I can continue with preparing the 7 for rallying.

First up is uprating all the rear suspension. I have already replaced all the bushes with polybushes in 2003 so I have now bought new uprated springs which are rated at 200lbs (standard 95) and one inch lowered. To go with these I have the rubber seats and uprated shock absorbers.

The shock absorbers have taken up much thought. I ordered a pair of AVO adjustables until I found out that the price was for one, not two! I am happy to spend a fair bit of cash but nevertheless, I am working to a budget.

I then very nearly bought a pair of adjustable Konis at S&S but, looking at them, they didn't seem of obviously superior quality and they are far from easy to adjust.

So, I have taken the advice of S&S and bought KYB Gas-adjust shock absorbers which they recommend and seem to have a good press in the states. They are also cheaper than the AVOs and Konis (but still 3 times the price of standard shocks).

I now have the S&S Preps recommended fast road set up - is this a sensible budget approach that will work in tarmac rallying? Only time will tell.

I have limited time this weekend so have only started the process of replacing the suspension - the pictures will show what stage I am at.

Next week I plan at least 4 or 5 hours which I hope will see the job done.

Tuesday, January 04, 2005

Uprated brakes

I have been researching an uprated brake kit for the TR7 because the standard brakes are barely adequate for road use and certainly are not up to rallying.

The works cars used a vented disc and 4 pot caliper set up. Enquiries at a specialist brake supplier mean that this would be the most expensive route to go, certainly with new components (which I want). Hold on to that thought - the most expensive.

There are various kits around from specialist TR7 suppliers at around £460.

There are also some intriguing set ups done by enthusiasts using BMW discs and Volvo 260 calipers for example but they seem to be around the same cost and still need some fabrication (which I am not confident about doing).

Anyway, remember the works set up? Well, the specialist supplier has suggested a cheaper alternative using "off the shelf" AP racing calipers and having a disc made up along with all the brackets etc to mount the caliper to the suspension.

Cost of this cheaper option? £870 + VAT and that doesn't include pads!!!

I can't see me going down this route.

I wonder what the cost of replicating the works set up would be if this is a cheaper alternative?

The standard front brake set up in all it's glory! Posted by Hello

Monday, January 03, 2005

This is the dashboard with the clock replaced with an oil pressure gauge - after all I wear a watch on my wrist so I would rather have a gauge that tells me something about the engine! Posted by Hello

This is a spare dashboard for a TR7. In the top left there should be a clock but these rarely work! The clock in my TR7 doesn't work so picking up on something I heard I decided to see if I could replace it. Posted by Hello

Saturday, January 01, 2005

On the M25 at the end of the Round Britain Reliabilty Run October 2004. A great event and the car ran like a dream. Posted by Hello

2004 review

It's been a great year with the car and with Club Triumph but now I am looking forward to 2005.

I have removed the headlamp motors and fixed the pods in the upright position. Then I have completely removed the steel centre section of the front bumper to save some more weight. The "minilites" are now on the car permanently and next I plan to cut out the centre section of the rear bumper to save some more weight.

I have bought new rear springs, an anti-dive kit and have new adjustable shock absorbers on order. January should see all this lot fitted to the car.

Oh, and during December I found time to buy a Dolomite Sprint engine off e-bay complete with all manifolds, carbs etc for £76. This will find it's way into the TR7 in due course (probably not in 2005).All in all, a busy time with more to come.

2004 posts from Club Triumph Car sagas

Update December 4th 2004

BRP is now off the road over the winter whilst I contemplate it's slow transformation into a rally car.

Last weekend I started it up and found the clutch stuck on which took some shifting - the moral is to start it up and move it on a regular basis.

I have removed all the RBRR debris from inside and washed the car. I have also now trial fitted the minilites from my Vitesse on the car and am pleased to say they fit. They are like the standard wheels, a bit lost in the wheel arch but I can't have massive wheels and tyres anyway or they would clash with road rally regs. Here's a photo - see what you think

I have also had trouble with the off side headlamp pod which wouldn't rise up as required. After substituting a spare motor I can't get the wiring right so I am now contemplating doing what the works team did and bolting it in place in the raised position. This would do away with the wiring issue and save some weight as I could remove the two motors. It also looks pretty good too with the Cibies!

The works cars, or any rally car really also has the bumpers modified. They are very heavy steel items with a plastic cover. Rally cars have the steel removed and the plastic covers held in place by alloy brackets - no good in an accident but they do save weight. I am contemplating a compromise by removing central sections of the steel as I have a spare set of front and rear bumpers.

Update October 4th 2004
Mileage since last update 2600!

Just completed this year's Round Britain Reliability Run. I won't go into it all here as I'll be writing an article for Club Torque in due course but I will just cover how the car performed.

In a word - superb! All weekend the car ran very well, the engine pulled well from about 2800RPM and sounded really crisp, bang on song all the way round. In a total of 1948 miles on the event itself it returned an MPG of 30.7 which I am pleased with considering we were pressing on at the legal speed limit whenever possible.

The gearbox and transmission were brilliant too - thanks to S&S Preps for their work on the car.

Now, things that need improving whilst I remember. Starting with small areas and then working up.

1) Must work on the fixing for the car compass as it's in a perfect place on the dashboard but vibrates which gets a bit annoying over 2 days.
2) Wheel balance problem needs attention - may be sorted with fitment of "minilites" from the Vitesse.
3) The driver's window has started stiffening up and falling back by about an inch from the top. I know this means the regulator needs attention which is a fiddly job guaranteed to result in scrapes and cuts to myself!
4) A worrying "clomk" has started with each sweep of the wipers.
5) Must look at the exhaust system to see if I can get any higher as it kept grounding out.
6) New springs needed. They must be firmer but I am not sure about what ride height to go for yet.
7) Along with the springs, new dampers all round.
8) Upgraded brakes along with an anti-dive kit.
9) Bodywork, new solid roof panel along with doorskin and tidying up.

Ok - a bit to be going on with then before the10CR in 2005

Update September 25th

S&S sorted out the gearbox problem for me. All the car needed was a new bell housing, clutch, fork, pin and slave cylinder. Throw in new gear lever bushes and a replacement propshaft and it wasn't much of a problem really!

Now I have the cibies on the car, wired up to come on with main beam and I have re-installed the interior after the latest gearbox job.

Having washed the car next up is the Round Britain Run - how will that go I wonder?

Update August 31st, 2004
Mileage since last update 450

Now with 5 speed transmission I took the TR down to the south for the weekend. First of all a road run around Bedford followed by camping at a pub with some fellow Triumph enthusiasts. The car behaved very well and it was a pleasure to have a quiet diff, a good gearbox and that 5th gear.

Then to the Club national day @ Knebworth park where I bought a bargain pair of Cibies . Again on the way home the car behaved very well, so much so that I drove in formation with a Porsche Boxster for about 40 miles and all was well with the world.

And then, well, yes there's a down side. Just heading out of Harrogate on the A59 with less than 30 miles to go the clutch pedal went straight to the floor as I was changing up from 2nd. I had no alternative but to coast into a convenient lay by and contemplate the immediate future given that I could only select gears with the engine off. It's at this point that I should have investigated more but, instead, I selected 3rd and started the engine in gear and set off home.

Within a few miles there was such a racket going off and a continual bashing on the footwell that I had to stop again. A look under the bonnet (should have done this before) showed that the clutch slave cylinder was hanging by it's hydraulic pipe onto the floor with no sign of the studs and nuts that had held it to the bell housing! I tied it to the engine mounting and set off again to the accompaniment of the occasional rotary grating noise - oh good!

Driving with only 3rd gear wasn't much fun either but I made it home OK.

An inspection shows the clutch actuating fork gone and a hole gouged in the bell housing!

Calling S&S Preparations resulted in the comment that there should be bolts, not studs, holding the slave cylinder on - I suspect that's the cause of the problem. So, over to S&S to fix it as I don't have the time before the Round Britain Run.

Update August 14th, 2004
Mileage since last update -10!

We had left the car with the 5 speed gearbox nearly there but not quite. The problem was that the gearbox needed to go to the nearside at the front but couldn't as it was up against the transmission tunnel. If we could get the gearbox forward it could then go left, but it couldn't come forward until it had gone left - one of those situations.

After a cup of tea we had a brainwave, if you can't move the gearbox to line up with the engine, can you move the engine to line up with the gearbox? So, loosen the engine mounts and a block of wood where the battery should be, then a screw jack between that and the top of the engine block at the rear moved the engine down and to the offside - aha!

About 30 minutes later the gearbox still wouldn't go in and we had just decided to take it out again and see what had been obstructing it before trying once more. In a fit of pique though, I just got hold of the back of the gearbox and tried to show it who's boss and it worked! It just slid in. At last!

Then just a case of about 4 hours to bolt everything up including the propshaft to have the entire 5 speed transmission in the car.

Next step - swap the wheel cylinders over from the old axle, clean everything up, re-assemble and bleed the brakes which takes much longer to do than say. Finally, into the car and turn the key to start it and take it off the ramps. Nothing! Right, that's it, game over, forget it. A desultory check showed a loose connection at the starter motor (could this be related to the earlier starter problems I have had?) - once this was fixed the car started and a 10 mile test run proved very satisfactory - the 5 speed set up has transformed the car.

Now I just need to finish it all off and compete in the Automania Autotest on August 28th, followed by the Round Britain Run.

Update July 31st , 2004

Last week my mate, Kevin and I were planning to remove the gearboxes and swap them over. We didn't get very far though as the 5 speed box was proving reluctant to come out, the car fell off the axle stands and I ended up in the local A&E with a head wound!

Round 2 was yesterday though. We had the donor TR7 on a ramp at the back and on two car ramps at the front - nice and secure. That took about 20 minutes as we were very conscious of getting everything right.Then the box came out in about 15 minutes - there had been the "bell housing bolt left in" syndrome, hence we had been pushing and pulling last week.Another 30 minutes later and the 4 speed gearbox was out of BRP - (car supported on 4 ramps under the wheels).Next, new clutch, fork and release bearing fitted.We then tried fitting the 5 speed box but couldn't quite get it in (ooh-err) - at this point we decided to call it a day on the premise that when we return for round 3 in two weeks time it'll just go straight in.

Update July 10, 2004

Back from a week's holiday and straight back to the TR7!

The 5 speed axle is now fully bolted up and the hand-brake cable attached. Whilst under the car I also used Dinitrol on the underside and in the chassis rails which I intend to repeat on an annual basis.

Then it was over to the spares TR7 and I have just about got the 5speed gearbox ready to come out but had to leave it until I have some assistance. VOLUNTEERS please get in touch!

Finally back to BRP where I removed the propshaft and started the process of removing the 4 speed gearbox, uncoupling the speedo drive, taking the gear lever out, that sort of thing.

Maybe I'll continue tomorrow. The aim will be to have the 4 speed gearbox in the same position as the 5 speed one - just a couple of bolts left to remove. Then it's a case of getting some help in to remove both gearboxes and get a full clutch from S&S ready to re-assemble the whole thing again.

It all sounds simple if you take it a bit at a time - must remember to put the right gearbox in though! After that it's a case of coupling everything up, getting the brakes sorted and hoping against hope that all is well.

Update June 28, 2004

Ok, so I have now removed the four speed axle which only took a couple of hours. Then swapped over brake pipes and the flexi and moved the 5 speed axle into position.

Not that easy a task by yourself as the 5 speed is certainly a heavier unit. It's clear it is able to take more power than the "ight duty" axle.

Then it's a case of bolting up the shock absorbers followed by the top and bottom links. Well, it sounds easy enough on paper and 4 out of the 6 locations go in OK (ish) but getting the bottom links bolted up is a bit of a so and so! I have now, after three attempts got the nearside bolted up but the offside is still fighting me so there's a smaller bolt in at the moment to help locate it.

The secret appears to be patience, a trolley jack, patience, a screw jack, patience and two ratchet straps. All combined to pull and push the axle and links into the correct alignment along with a pry bar, a hammer (gulp) and more patience.

Only one side to go now and then it's just a case of bolting everything up tight.

Then I move onto removing two gearboxes, fitting the 5 speeder into BRP along with a new clutch.

Pass me a whisky!

Update June 19th

Since the Wessex Rally I have been working on swapping the 5 speed running gear from my 76 spares TR7.

Last weekend I got the axle off the spares car which took a fair bit of doing. Different bits and pieces refused to co-operate so it had to come off with a shock absorber still attached to the nearside and an upper link still attached to the offside.

Today I have taken a couple of hours to finally remove these items, clean the axle up and check it's oil level - this seems fine and the small amount of oil that ran out looks clean. Then it was a case of starting the strip down of BRP. I removed the rear wheels and disconnected the handbrake cable. Whilst under the car I sprayed Dinitrol over the various bits of bare chassis etc where we bottomed out last week!

Next I have to remove the axle completely and bolt the 5 speeder in - sounds easy!

Update June 6th 2004

625 miles completed since yesterday! Myself and co-driver Tim Bancroft competed in Dolphin Motor Club's Wessex rally and here's a report.

We were also delighted to see Graham Reeks and Jason Chinn entered in Graham's GT6, also as beginners. How many years is it since there were two Club Triumph entries in a rally I wonder?

I drove down to the start (a mere 240 miles) and met up with Tim, Graham and Jason. We had no problem with the noise test or scrutineering but Graham had a couple of issues sorted by me scrounging a warning triangle from a marshal and Tim loaning the battery retaining clamp from his own GT6 - that's teamwork!

As we were in the beginner's class we were given marked maps of the route so all we had to do was follow the route and keep within time. We had a few "wrong slots" to begin with but Tim got better and better with the route through the evening so we did pretty well, we had no chance of trying to manage the timing as well though!

On the driver's side it just brought back all the memories from 17 years ago and I loved it! There is no need to break speed limits but the national speed limit is entertaining enough in the dark I can assure you. There were also a number of "whites" on the route. Maybe I should explain; a "white" is a minor road or track so called because it is coloured white on an Ordnance Survey map. Tim was a bit surprised on a number of occasions at the state of these as they were really farm tracks and quite rutted. I needed to drive with the off-side wheels in the centre and the nearside wheels on the verge to avoid damaging the TR too much and where there was gravel or mud we enjoyed some sideways action!

The TR did very well really but some development is needed. A whining diff, the smell of burning gear oil, bottoming out and very poor brakes are all in need of attention. The addition of a sump-guard and a pair of driving lamps wouldn't go amiss either if we are to do more of these.

I won't be replacing the front spoiler that got ripped off though but the damage to the nearside front lower apron (under the bumper) is just an honourable battler scar to me!

Unfortunately, Graham and Jason had to retire due to a faulty condenser but Tim and I made it to the finish and, of course, as a result of Graham and Jason's retirement we were first Club Triumph crew on the event and got maximum championship points! We also won the class on the actual rally and have a trophy to prove it. I think we may have to do this again.

So, regarding the car, what development is needed for it to be a road rally car?

Engine - fine, no need for more power in the immediate future.Transmission - the 4 speed box felt pretty good actually but a diff on it's way out and the smell of burning gear oil means it has to go. Replacement will be a 5 speed gearbox, propshaft and axle.Brakes - appalling. I thought the standard brakes were OK and the car passed an MOT this week but they are just useless. I really had to hold back because I had no confidence in them. Uprated brakes are a priority.Suspension - standard again and too bouncy. Problem is the uprated kits lower the car by an inch and we need ground clearance so I will have to look into this. Standard ride height but stiffer springs, uprated shocks and an anti-dive kit should be the ingredients.

Update 5/6/04

In the last month I have been to Anglesey to the TR Register track day. This was a great event which I must try to attend next year too. It was also a 300 mile round trip which certainly proved that diff is on it's way out!

Today I am off to Newbury to take part in a road rally, the first proper overnight road rally I have done since September 1987! I hope the diff makes it there and back. It's 236 miles from my house to the start which will take over 4 hours non-stop and then 120 competitive miles over night followed by 236 miles back again - the best part of 600 miles, I must be mad!

Hopefully we will have a good event but then I will be swapping the axle and gearbox from the 5 speed spares car I have. Actually, I took the 5 speed axle off yesterday which I am sure is the easiest part of the whole operation.

Update 3/5/04

Taxed my TR7 on May 1st so at last it's back on the road. I am sure the polybushes I fit have made a big difference to the handling, the car feels much more responsive to steering inputs etc. I also took the car for a 40 mile test drive and it reminded me how enjoyable it is to drive on country roads (I am lucky enough to live on the borders of the Yorkshire Dales).

On the downside though, - a definite howl from the diff that I don't remember from before. I wonder if that's why I had to put a litre of gear oil in? The last time it was on the road was on the 10 Countries Run when I had more to worry about. The car hasn't turned a wheel on the road since.

I also suspect some clutch slip too although maybe this is just down to it being stood for 6 months (he says, hopefully).

All this has made me start on a plan I have had for some time. This afternoon I have started taking the gearbox out of my spares TR7 and removing it's axle - both are 5 speed. This is also consistent with the future fitment of a V8 if I go down that route.

Immediate plans are to go to a track day on Anglesea which should really test the car (320 mile round trip) followed by a possible road rally. I am hopeful the transmission will stand up to all this so that I can MOT the TR and then renew the insurance in July. If all that comes off August may see me switch the axle and gearbox over in time for October's Round Britain Run.

Update 10/4/04

Completed the service on the TR7 - not much to report really. Fitted a spin on oil filter conversion bought from S&S which wasn't a problem once I had the car jacked up and safely on axle stands so I could get under it. That made it so much easier to check the oil levels in the gearbox and back axle too - there was a surprise here though as I had to put in over a litre of gear oil into the back axle. This axle was a second hand one supplied by S&S last year after I bent the previous one on the 2002 Round Britain Run! Next I want to take the seats out and give the car a good clean up inside, then wax-oyl the underneath. I'll probably wait for a warm sunny day though.

I also removed the cowl above the fan blades, cleaned it up and spray painted it matt black. It certainly looks better for it but I am concerned I might get a taste for the concourse mentality - does it start this way with a small item repainted and then go from there?

One other thing today, I pulled the cover off my Vitesse, put the re-charged battery on it and started it up I try to do this every so often and move it up and down the drive to keep every thing freed off. I can see myself wanting to complete it's preparation for historic rallies one day, after all, that's what I bought it for 10 years ago.

Update 28/3/04

My father in law used to be an upholsterer for a bus company before WW2. Why should that be relevant to a club car saga? Well, I bought a piece of black leather and asked him to recover the central tunnel knee pads and the centre console armrest. He has done this for me and I got them back recently. Typically of him he thought he hadn't done a very good job but I am well pleased. Just putting these 3 trim items into the car has improved the interior no end.

Further down you will see the incident in Austria - at the time the inside of the battery looked like it had mud rather than acid in it! Well I had been charging this battery to put it onto my Vitesse so that I could start it and run it up and down my drive. Unfortunately, I couldn't as the battery on my TR7 was flat so I had to revert to the charged battery (following this?). Anyway, I just checked the cells after I had put it on the TR and they were completely dry! Hmm. Next I put some rainwater in (!) and turned the key on the TR expecting a dead battery but no, it started fine! So this particular battery has been completely drained in Austria, run dry whilst being trickle charged, is at least 3 years old and is still working - can't be bad.

I have now started the service on the TR. It's obvious the progress made between a car made in 1965 (the Vitesse) and a car made in 1977 (the TR7) because the list of jobs is so much less - I have no problem with this at all. Not much to report so far though, just cleaning the dizzy cap, topping up the carbs etc.

Next stop though is a visit to S&S preparations for a spin on oil filter conversion.

Update 11/3/04

I bought a front spoiler as fitted originally to slightly later cars from S&;S at the Stoneleigh show. It was a joy to fit as everything lined up exactly as it should.

I have also, this very night, loosely fitted the second hand sunroof I bought unseen from Ellis Stokes (TR7 consultant). Amazingly it's the same manufacturer and the same size - this is surprising as i's not the standard factory fit roof and it's not the same size. It will need "fettling" so I can't wait for some warmer weather when I can get using the car again.

Next job will be conducting a full service in April and then putting on 6 months tax from May 1st.

Initial introductory "saga"

My TR7 broke down in Austria and had to be fixed by Europassist during the 2003 10CR. The problem was that the heat-shield around the starter motor had broken away from it's retaining clips and had shorted out the starter motor. This in turn completely drained the battery, even to the extent that there were no igniton lights! Having been fixed by Europassist we drove it all the way to Calais at 85+ (where allowed of course) and then 50 miles from home at junction 25 of the M6 it cut out again. The car finally made it home on the back of a transporter.
One other issue had been that the sunroof broke just before the event. Not only did the handle sheer off but the entire header rail was rotten. This was "fixed" using gaffer tape but it didn't stop rain getting in and falling into my lap making me look incontinent!
Anyway, since then I have had the starter motor reconditioned, fixed the retaining clips on the heat-shield and re-fitted it.
Thanks to Ellis I have sourced a sunroof and bought it unseen (!) which, with a bit of luck, will fit straight into my 7. I'll put together an update on this in due course.
I have also fitted a full set of polybushes and sent an article to Ellis for him to use in his capacity as TR7 consultant.
Apart from that I am working on the route for the 2005 10CR and this year's Autotest. You should see the results in Club Torque in due course.

BRP now with "minilites", Cibie lamp covers and after modified front bumper. The car is being transformed into first a road and then a tarmac rally car. It will eventually look similar to the early 16 valve rally cars. Posted by Hello

Towards the end of the Round Britain Run 2004 on the M25 Posted by Hello

Club Triumph car sagas - Raider's TR7

Hi - my first posting on this blogg.

I am the Compettion Secretary of Club Triumph and have been compiling a "car saga" on our website for nearly a year.

A blogg seemed like an easier way to go about this so here we are!