Saturday, April 25, 2015

Dry but cold feet

Thanks to Ted Taylor I now have a lever for the heater valve which can be seen in the next photo and then fitted in the one after.

It's obvious to me now though that I am missing a linkage too but at least I can actually move the valve and test driving the car meant that I found out the lever successfully also held the valve in place and I didn't get my feet covered in hot water as before - hence "dry feet".

What doesn't happen though is the heater getting hot - hence "cold but dry feet".

Under the engine bay I disconnected the hoses to the inlet manifold and ran water through them which cleared any residue out as I thought a blockage there might be a problem.

I am currently wondering if I have the heater hoses connected the right way round but can't really see how they could be wrong. I can't find a decent picture of another 2000 in this are though so it's difficult to know.

I will sort it though. In the meantime here's pictures of my heater hoses so if anyone is reading this and thinks they are not connected right please get in touch.


Sunday, April 19, 2015

Bushes and valves

When PMW got it's MOT there was an advisory that there was some play in the steering rack bushes. As I wanted to move on to sorting out the jammed heater valve which meant ordering a new one it made sense to order some new polybushes for the steering rack from Chris Witor and combine the postage.

Fitting the bushes was surprisingly easy given my usual experience that the rule of 3 applies!

So, with that done I moved on to the seized heater valve which was not so easy. I had to drill out the centre of the valve which took quite some time, slowly going up in drill bit size.
Valve at top left with canble tie behind it. Protection from polythene bag for expected water loss!
So, next I inserted a bolt in to the centre of the valve in the hole drilled and by using washers and an old spanner as a "puller" I was able to remove it.
Next picture shows old and new valves
Finally I inserted the new valve and that should have been that, apart from the fact that I need an actuating lever to amke it all work as it should but it was possible for now to put the valve in place to have it on permanent "hot".

OK, test run time and
  1. There was still no heat from the heater!
  2. The valve popped out spilling hot water into the footwell and over my left foot"
I flushed out the heater matrix as there was plenty of water int he footwell so some more wouldn't do any harm and cleaned the inlet manifoild water outer outlwt but still no joy.

That's enough for this week whilst I ponder my next move.

Meanwhile, the car is running well, the overdrive works and the clutch works so some progress is being made.

Saturday, April 11, 2015

Knowing when

The elctronic ignition has made a big difference and although there may be some advantage in further adjustment to the timing the car is running the best it has in a very very long time.

So today I decided to move on to something else.

There has always been an oil leak from the sump plug area and this is also in close proximitiy to the infamous clutch slave cylinder and it's couplings so today I got the car up on axle stands again and worked on both.

Having drained the oil I cleaned the sump plug, got two copper washers for it and applied some liquiid PTFE as advised by a Club Triumph friend, Rob Southern. With this done I put the sump plug back in and refilled with oil.

At the same time I checked the hydraulic hose coupling to the slave cylinder and there still seemed a slight weep here. So I removed the coupling, cleaned and dried it all as well as found a new copper washer that fitted more snugly. Then after applying the liquid PTFE I re-assembled it and bled the system with fresh hydraulic fluid.

Then I drove tthe car for an extended test of 35 miles.

  1. The car never missed a beat with the engine pulling storngly, making gorgeous noises from 3000RPM and the overdrive working too!
  2. The clutch worked fine thorughout and when I got back no hydraulic fluid hasd been lost - result!
  3. From what I can see the oil leak from the sump plug has been fixed.

I was well pleased with all that and I know toquit when I am ahead!

That's enough for this weeknd and maybe the 10CR will be OK after all.

Monday, April 06, 2015

Confidence level up to 40%

Fitting the electronic ignition has made a big difference.

I have now played around with the timing and although it is well retarded according to my strobe light the position I have settled on is giving really good results. The engine revs freely with no hesitation at all and this is over about 30 miles so my confidence level is building.

In addition I have taken some time over fitting the overdrive switch on the gear lever and it seems to be staying put as well as the overdrive working too.

The car is still losing clutch fluid though so it's not all good news and this is despite fitting a copper washer as advised. I think I may well be taking the car to my local friendly garage here in Barnoldswick, Vicarage Car Company and asking them to solve the mysterious loss of brake fluid. When this is solved my confidence level will go up another notch and I will use the car for the North Yoprkshire Triumph weekend in May.

That in itself will be a tester in advance of driving round Europe in the 10CR in September.

Various other tasks remain like fixing the seized heater valve, fitting a new windscreen and maybe even fixing the oil leak on the sump although nonw of these are essential.

Saturday, March 21, 2015

We have (electronic) ignition - car confidence level holding at 30%

So today I fitted Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition and I have to say knowing my luck with this car I was mega surprised when it started!

I do still need to time it with my strobe light but it was set "close enough" for an initial trial and the car didn't half hesitate a few times on setting off. After a few hiccups though it completed the 8 mile test run with no further problems and ran really smooth with a good pick up and good levels of power.  Now let's see how long it lasts.

Strangely though I started to notice a new noise develop on acceleration during the run which sounded like maybe a wheel bearing or perhaps the clutch release bearing. When I got back home though I didn't think too much about it and as I was getting out the car I picked up the new MOT certificate the car got this week.
On this was an advisory which caught my eye: "Front prop shaft joint excessive play". Hmmm. This could be the noise I had heard developing.

Looking back in my records though the car had a new front UJ in March last year which failed big time in October so I decided to relace the whole propshaft with a reconditioned one and now the front UJ is showing excessive wear? There's something not right here and the car has only done about 400 miles in a year!!

What about the clutch? Well it's worked now for 16 miles but the fluid is half way down the master cylinder so I am not convinced on this front either.

Maybe 30% is too high a confidence level.


Sunday, March 08, 2015

Clutch fixed, engine running fine. Confidence level 30%

Copper washer in place
I have returned to the ungrateful PMW today and fitted a copper washer to the clutch hydraulic pipework at the slave cylinder as advised. Then after refilling and bleeding the hydraulics I took it for a run on my usual route.

I can report that 8 miles were completed with the clutch working correctly and the engine running just fine which is great as far as it goes. I have been "bit" many times before though so I am reserving judgement and at this time would only say I am 30% confident in the car.

Meanwhile, the curious electric fan issue has returned in that it comes on as the car is started, cuts off later and then refuses to cut in when the engine temperature rises and it's needed. It will restart though if I turn the car off and then immediately put the ignition back on.

If and it's a big if, the clutch is now OK then I need to be reassured that the engine problems are resolved. To this end I have bought an Aldon Ignitor electonic ignition kit which should arrive next week. Yes I know there are cheaper kits out there but I have always had good experiences with Aldon's goods so I am taking no chances (or at least as few as possible).

When that is fitted and the engine running is sorted (as well as the clutch problems) I will move on to the overdrive switch, the electric fan problems and at some point the seized heater valve. Higher on the priority list though is an MOT this month as in theory I am using PMW for the North Yorkshire Triumph Weekend although I did day that last year too and couldn't!

Sunday, February 01, 2015

One problem that wasn't-solved, then another appears

The joys of working on 45 year old cars.

When I identified the heater wasn't working a few weeks ago now I carried out one or two checks. The control was operating the levers but there was no hot water to the heater pipes from the engine bay.

I had actually missed a crucial bit here as I wasn't familiar with the 2000 heater system and I now know it's a stuck heater valve and there is no lever actually attached any more.

Not realising this though I contacted Chris Witor, talked it over with him and he suggested it was possibly the water return pipe connecting the inlet manifold to the water pump. As it looks like the original it could easily have become full of gunk and be restricting water flow and it isn't something I would like to have fail on the 10 Countries Run either so I ordered a replacement.

I removed the old pipe which was a bit of a faff as it runs between the exhaust manifold and the block but once I had it off the car there was a kink in it but other than that it didn't look too bad. Obviously I still replaced it with the new stainless steel pipe which should last another 45 years!

Of course that sounds easier than it was to do especially when things like ratchets, clips and olives fall on the floor and have to be found/retrieved.

Having completed this I then started the car to make sure there were no leaks and was pleased to see there weren't.

Strangely though the electric fan started immediately but cut off after about a couple of minutes. Getting the car thoroughly up to temperature it didn't come back on though as expected. I switched the engine off, restarted and the electric fan came on.

I'll have to investigate that next.It could be because the car isn't being used and old cars don't like that. For example petrol came out of the front carb float chamber too but a tap on it cured the sticking valve. Regular use tends to make sure these things don't happen.