Saturday, November 19, 2016

The heat is on

Returning to the overheating problem.
A good friend of mine, Mike Charlton, loaned me temperature gun that looks rather like a phazer ffrom the original Star Trek.

Well, armed with Mike Charlton's phazer I went out this afternoon to check what the temperature actually was  when the electric fan came on and then what it was in comparison to what the car's temp gauge said.

Running the car up to temperaure at tick over plus a few revs (strategically placed calibrated brick on accelerator pedal) the electric fan cut in way too soon, even the temp gauge had only just crept up above cold!

So I adjusted that and then with Mike's phazer I was monitoring the temp at the waterpump, thermostat housing approaching 70 degrees or so when the fan came on again so I adjusted it up again.

A little while later the temperature gauge was in the middle, using Mike's phazer temps were now around 85 to 90 and a couple of minutes after that the fan cut in at 2/3 of the temp gauge.

When it cut out the temp gauge was back down just under 1/2 way, in fact where you would want it to be

I am taking it that the thermostat opened, the fan controller cut the fan in at around 100 -110 and it cut off again at around 85-90. The car happily ran at 1100rpm from then on at normal temp on the temp gauge.

I don't know why all this should have happened really other than it's blooming cold out there under the carport right now but until today it would have run at 3/4 temp with the fan on all the time I haven't actually changed anything that I can see that would now mean it runs at a normal temperature but the loan of MIke's temp gun does mean I can rule out a dodgy temp gauge as this seems to be accurate.

Here's a pic of the temp at the waterpump/thermostat housing a couple of minutes after I had switched the engine off.

Next I'll work on the poor running after tips from Mr Shedtune but that can be another week as it's too cold for me out there

Sunday, October 30, 2016

Looking for a knob

I have seen this all too often. The overdrive gearknob switch won't stay in place which is a real pain and of course means no overdrive.
I have decided on a completely different alternative. It's possible to fit an alloy gearknob with a toggle switch which is much more robust and retains the ability to easily flick the overdrive on and off whilst holding the gearstick.

I am going with a different approach though which is cheaper and whilst not as hands on as the above option should be fine with how I want to use the 2000, more of a cruiser than a sporting car.

Here is an overdive switch for a TR2 which I have used in the past on a Vitesse I owned. That's not the position for it by the way but was a good place to put it whilst I worked.

 Although it would be good there I want to keep the power outlet for satnavs etc so I looked for options.

I then thought about using the location for the dimmr dwitch on the dashboard as the dashboard lights are rubbish anyway and there's no need to dim them!

Now started another saga where the car decided to fight me.

I pulled the dashboard out and removed the dimmer swicth which wasn't easy but when I fitted the overdrive pull switch it didn't really work well as a solution due to the gap around the switch. During removal of the dimmer swicth though the connectors became disconnected from the back of it so when I wanted to replace it I needed to use a spare I had.

I needed to get a little bit more clearance though and had to disconnect the tripmeter cable from the speedometer. When putting this back I actually found it was broken at the speedo end  but I thought this wouldn't be a problem as I had a spare on the original 2000 speedo. The cable had actually broken with the plastic connections falling inside the speedo so the job became a bigger one.

OK I thought, I'll swap in the whole 2000 speedo but then realised it wouldn't match as it has chrome rings whilst all the other gauges have black rings because they are Pi ones. Then I remembered a brand new TC one I had bought as  a Rimmer Bros clearance item a few years back. That had a black ring and the trip doesn't use a cable as it's a push button through the front of the gauge. I fitted this although it has a top speed of 120mph instead of 140mph but who's kidding anyone the car will ever see 140!.

With the dashboard back in I could return to fitting the overdrive pull switch.

I put it where I had in mind right from the start, where Triumph fitted a pull switch for a rear screen heater. This is fine as I can re-use the hole for a rear screen heater switch which I will need in the future.

So, a bit of drilling and fitting resulted in this.

A Triumph part in a correct location in the car.

Now what I need though is a gearknob for a non overdive 2000, maybe a complete gearlever too but that's for another day.

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Working on it

Following advice from the Club Triumph forum I returned to PMW today.

I adjusted the Revotec fan controller down to minimum which meant that it would cut in at 70C. Here's what the temp gauge looked like then. Higher than would be expected which implies the gauge is over-reading.

Then I followed the instructions and turned the controller "up" until it went off. When it came back on the temp gauge looked like this.
That's where it stayed with the electric fan on all the time.

I checked to make sure the fan was blowing the correect way. It's mounted in front of the raadiator and I put some paper/card in front of it and it was nearly pulled into the fan so that's OK.

The temperature gauge stayed at this level all the time I went for a short run with the car but I didn't take it too far as it was struggling to get up a small rise in the road in second gear! The timing appears to be miles out using a timing gun  but when I tried to adjust it to something closer to where it should be the engine died.

Oh, and the overdrive switch on the gearknob came off again.

More things to ponder over.

Saturday, October 15, 2016

Not sure about that!

So today I got PMW started as the battery had been on charge.

I then took the car for a run to see if the overheating had been cured but had major problems after less than a mile. When I got the car home one of the heater pipes had come off letting all the coolant out so I had to fix that.

Next run of 8 miles on the test track was sort of OK as the car made it but continues to run with the temperature gauge at 3/4 and the electric fan on permanently. The new water pump hasn't improved things then.

In addition the car didn't run that well either, lacking power at times.

So, I think now it's over to Vicarage Motor Company for some professional help.

Sunday, October 02, 2016

Reluctant to start - but that's OK

40 minutes this week on PMW.

All pipework reconnected, time taken to fit new hose clips where needed and refitting the Revotec sender for the elictric fan in line with a photo I took of Matt George's installation which looked that bit neater than mine.

Then refill with coolant and fire up PMW. But it wouldn't as it didn't turn over fast enough. I reckon all the time stood has lowered the charge in the battery which is fair enough especially as it's the one the car came when I bought it so must be a fair few years old now.

Mind you there didn't appear to be any leaks which is a good sign.

So, simply off with the battery and put it on charge for a week whilst I packed all the tools away and moved on to preparing for Club Triumph's Round Britain Reliability Ruun where I will be marshalling at Tebay next Saturday night (October 8th).

Saturday, September 24, 2016

30 minutes more

Well last weeks 20 minutes went OK, some progress made and I didn't get too stressed so this week I went for 30 minutes on PMW.

This seems to be working as I got the stainless steel return pipe back in place and was able to fit it to the water pump housing too, AMAZING!  I even got the waterpump housing bolted back up and the short hose on the end of the return pipe connected to the end of the inlet manifold pipework.
From there I remembered something my mate Bruce Garbutt said to me. The water pipework through the inlet manifold on his GT6 had been blocked which restricted the flow of water. Having fixed it the car warmed up quicker but then ran cooler because this circuit was now doing what it should.

As I was at this point I decided to flush through the inlet manifold to make sure PMW's was in good shape. As can be seen from the video it certainly is fine.
At this point my 30 minutes were up so I packed everything away and closed the bonnet. Next time, 40 minutes!

I did work on another car though, my new Rover 214SEi. I have said I will not be working on this car myself but pottering about is allowed I think!

The washer jets keep stopping and the usual use of a pin down their orifice hasn't been a complete fix. This isn't a situation that's OK in a car I use as a daily commute car.

So, off with the washer bottle, disconnect the wiring and pipework to both (!) washer pumps and let cleaning begin. Well that was all very easy really, a joy to drive and a joy to work on it seems.
I ran water from the garden tap through the washer bottle and scrubbed it out with an old dish pan scrubber until it was clean.

Next the said pin was pushed down all of the washer jets front and rear followed by a blast of air from my airline gun to clear the pipework. Then reassembled everything, reconnected the wiring and pumbing followed by fresh washer fluid.

So, all well then. Err no. On first trial the pump was working for the front but there was no fluid coming out the washer jets. Not possible surely. Well yes, if you connect the rear jet's pipework to the front pump you won't get washer jets working at the front!

Swapping the tubing round though put everything back as it should be so a good job done in the end.

Saturday, September 17, 2016


So I returned to PMW today but promised myself I would only spend 20 minutes on it as that's all I can face.

Well I kept to that anyway.

First I removed the aircleaner so that I could reach the water pipe easier and allow me to line it up better. Well I could line it up but it wouldn't cooperate.
So next I decided to take the whole water pump and housing off the car and see if the damned thing would actually thread or if there was a problem with the threads for example.
Well with it all off the car it went in nice as pie and here's the proof.
What you see here is a stainless steel pipe and a new waterpump supplied by Chris Witor so it's not as if I am skimping on parts. PMW should be grateful I reckon!

Now I am wondering if I can put the waterpump back on and try again or maybe take all the inlet and exhaust manifold off and put this assembly back on as it is rather than risk the flippin thing being as difficult as before.

My 20 minutes were up though so on a positive note I am reasssured that the paipework will fit up and on that nore I put every thing away and I will see if I can face more than 20 minutes next week.

When this is all over I swear I won't ever work on the car again, I'll pay someone else to.

Did I mention how I am always reminded how much I love my Rover after working on Triumphs? Yes I did didn't I. Well I love my Rover so much I have bought another and that has now done over 400 miles with no problems whatsoever -are you listening Triumphs of the Raider fleet?